Chef Chris Galvin on Why I Love Markets - the "pockets of delight"

We welcomed our friend and esteemed chef Chris Galvin for an early morning tour around New Covent Garden Market. Chris has spent a lifetime in the restaurant trade - starting with a job washing pots for Anthony Worrall Thompson in the 1970’s - and now the Galvin family runs five restaurants with a staff of around 400 people. He reflects on his lifelong love of markets and their critical importance to the cultural life of the capital.

From left: Chef Chris Galvin, Marcus Rowlerson and Jeff Galvin

“I’ve been cooking in London for four decade and have always been interested in markets - they are the heart and soul of a place. I remember the original Covent Garden in the 60’s and 70’s. It was noisy and busy but of course as the lorries were getting bigger they just couldn’t in and out. In the 80’s there was very little in the way of French and Italian produce. But as more [food writers] wrote about it, the more people brought it to our doorstep. At one point, we were getting good deliveries two or three days per week. It was brilliant for the chefs. You are only as good as your ingredients. It was absolutely vital for the development of gastronomy in London.“

“When I was growing up, we had a lovely market in Romford – the was towards the end of the livestock markets – with live chickens and things like that. And Chelmsford Cattle Market. Down on New Covent Garden Market I love the seasonality and all the characters. They are pockets of delight. We try to avoid Dutch produce. People like Marcus take a huge risk bringing in some of these ingredients. But we work on trust. Everyone has to make a living. It is about finding those little gems - especially as spring approaches. We see so many wonderful ingredients coming onto the market. As soon as they have come they have gone. That is why it is so important to stay connected.”

Cooking Pertuis asparagus at New Covent Garden Market